Mineral Oil MTB Disc Brake Installation, Hose Shortening, and Bleed Manual

Consult sram.com/service whenever a separate manual is referenced in this document.

Read the full warranty policy for your components at sram.com/en/service/warranty.

For information about trademarks used in this manual, visit sram.com/website-terms-of-use.

Highly specialized tools and supplies are required for the replacement and maintenance of your SRAM components. We recommend that you have a qualified SRAM dealer work on your SRAM components.

1. Install the MatchMaker X (MMX) mount to the Controller or shifter.

2. Tighten the bolt MMX mount bolt.

3. Install the T-nut into the MMX clamp and onto the MMX mount.

4. Tighten the bolt.

5. Apply friction paste to the clamp surfaces.

6. Install the MMX Clamp and brake lever onto the handlebar. Install the clamp bolt.

7. Tighten the clamp bolt.

8. The clamp near the bolt head must be flush with the lever body. There may be a slight gap opposite the bolt head, this is okay.

1. Apply friction paste to the clamp surfaces.

2. Install the Discrete Clamp onto the handlebar.

3. Install the shifter onto the clamp and tighten the Discrete Clamp bolt.

4. Install the brake onto the clamp and tighten the Discrete Clamp bolt.

Rotate the lever Reach Adjust knob or hex adjuster to move the lever blade closer to the handlebar.

¹ If riding styles conflict, it is up to the user to size up or size down based on necessary braking power.

² Road, Gravel, Cyclocross -- Consult the fork or frame manufacturer’s specifications before installing a 140 mm or 180 mm rotor. These rotor sizes have compatibility limitations on many forks and frames.

³ E-bikes -- Consult the appropriate riding style column and select rotor size based on system weight.

All new disc brake pads and rotors should be put through a wear-in process called 'bed-in'. To perform this procedure, go to the Disc Bed-in Procedure section.

1. Install the rotor with the new, threadlock prepped rotor bolts. Tighten the rotor bolts one turn in an alternating sequence until a torque of 6.2 N·m (55 in-lb) is achieved for each bolt.

1. Install the rotor, tapered side first, onto the hub splines.

2-3. Install the center locking mechanism (not included) over the disc rotor and thread it into the hub, and tighten it to the torque specified by the locking mechanism's manufacturer.

If using a SRAM lockring, use a Ø44 mm 16-notch external bottom bracket tool to tighten to 40 N·m (354 in-lb).

1. Loosely install the caliper onto the fork or frame.

2. Lightly squeeze the brake lever three times and hold.

3. Lightly tighten the bolts. Release the lever.

4. Check that the brake pads are equally spaced on either side of the rotor.

5. Lightly squeeze and hold the brake lever.

6. Tighten the bolts.

If the brake pads rub on the rotor, loosen the caliper bolts and adjust the caliper position. Repeat steps 2-6.

1. Install the IS Mount onto the frame.

2. Tighten the IS Mount bolts.

3. Loosely install the caliper onto the IS Mount.

4. Lightly squeeze the brake lever three times and hold.

5. Lightly tighten the bolts. Release the lever.

6. Check that the brake pads are equally spaced on either side of the rotor.

7. Lightly squeeze and hold the brake lever.

8. Tighten the bolts.

If the brake pads rub on the rotor, loosen the caliper bolts and adjust the caliper position. Repeat steps 3-8.

Loosen the banjo bolt a half turn to adjust the hose to the desired angle, then tighten the banjo bolt.

Remove the wheel from the bicycle according to the wheel manufacturer's instructions.

Secure a shop towel under the hose at the hose connection point to absorb any mineral brake oil that may drip when the hose is disconnected.

1. Remove the rubber hose boot.

2. Use an 8 mm flare nut wrench to loosen the compression nut.

3. Remove the hose from the lever.

4a. The brakes should be installed with the hose properly routed and secured to the bicycle according to the frame manufacturer’s instructions. For internally-routed frames, cut off the compression fitting then route the hose through the frame.

4b. If included, attach the hose to the installed stem mounted hose clips or hold the hose against the handlebar if using the adhesive clips.

4c-4d. Hold the hose up to the brake lever with a length that creates a gentle bend in the hose and allows the handlebar to freely turn a minimum of 120 degrees to both sides, or as allowed by any rotation limiting devices.

5. Use a SRAM hydraulic hose cutter to cut the excess hose at the lever.

4a. The brakes should be installed with the hose properly routed and secured to the bicycle according to the frame manufacturer’s instructions. For internally-routed frames, cut off the compression fitting then route the hose through the frame.

4b-4c. Hold the hose up to the brake lever with a length that creates a gentle bend in the hose and allows the handlebar to freely turn a minimum of 120 degrees to both sides, or as allowed by any rotation limiting devices.

5. Use a SRAM hydraulic hose cutter to cut the excess hose at the lever.

1. Apply SRAM hydraulic disc brake grease to the hose barb threads.

2. Use a T8 TORX wrench to thread the Stealth-a-majig hose barb into the hose until it is flush with the end of the hose.

3. Thread the compression fitting over the hose barb, counter-clockwise, until it is flush or slightly lower than the hose barb.

The compression fitting is reverse threaded.

4. Apply SRAM hydraulic disc brake grease to the compression fitting and compression nut threads.

5. Install the hose firmly into the lever body while threading the compression nut by hand.

6. Use an 8 mm flare nut crowfoot to tighten the compression nut.

7. Install the rubber hose boot.

SRAM recommends bleeding your mineral oil brakes every other year to remove accumulated air. Bleed your brakes more often if you ride frequently or ride on aggressive terrain that requires heavy braking, and/or in sub-freezing temperatures. SRAM brake bleed videos can be found on www.sram.com/service.

The complete SRAM Mineral Oil Bleed Procedure consists of the following steps:

1. Caliper Identification

2. Prepare the Syringes

3. Prepare the Caliper

4. Prepare the Lever

5. Bleed the System

6. Disc Brake Piston Massage

Identify your caliper bleed port style before bleeding your brakes.

1. Assemble a syringe for the brake lever, thread the bleed clamp assembly with a threaded bleed fitting onto one of the syringe plungers.

2. Fill the syringe for the brake lever with Maxima Mineral Brake Oil until it is about 3/4 full.

Do not use DOT brake fluid.

3. Hold the syringe upright, cover the tip with a shop towel, and depress the plunger just enough to remove any air bubbles. The syringe should still be close to 3/4 full.

4. Close the valve or clamp on the syringe for the brake lever.

5. Assemble a syringe for the brake caliper.

Bleeding Edge: prepare a syringe with a Bleeding Edge fitting.

Threaded Bleeding Edge: prepare a syringe with a threaded bleed fitting.

6. Fill the syringe for the brake caliper with a small amount of Maxima Mineral Brake Oil.

Do not use DOT brake fluid.

7. Hold the syringe upright, cover the tip with a shop towel, and depress the plunger just enough to remove any air bubbles.

Remove the wheel from the bicycle according to the wheel manufacturer's instructions.

1. Remove the e-clip.

2. Remove the pad retaining bolt.

3. Remove the brake pads from the caliper.

4. Install the bleed block.

5. Install the pad retainer bolt.

Bleeding Edge:

6. Remove the bleed port cover.

7. Use a 5 mm hex wrench to loosen the bleed port valve 1/4 turn.

8. Gently retighten the bleed port.

9. Install the syringe with the Bleeding Edge tool attachment into the bleed port. Push it into the bleed port until you hear and feel it click in place.

10. Rotate the Bleeding Edge tool attachment counter-clockwise one complete rotation to open the system.

Do not exceed two complete rotations.

Threaded Bleeding Edge:

6. Use a T10 TORX wrench to remove the caliper bleed screw.

7. Thread the caliper syringe into the bleed port.

Remove the wheel from the bicycle according to the wheel manufacturer's instructions.

For levers with Contact Point Adjustment: Rotate the Contact Point Adjustment dial in the opposite direction of the arrow until it stops.

1. Rotate the lever Reach Adjust knob or hex adjuster until the lever blade is 75-80 mm from the centerline of the handlebar.

2. Use a T10 TORX to remove the bleed screw from the lever. Oil will drip out of the bleed port.

Clean any mineral brake oil that drips from the bleed port with isopropyl alcohol and a shop towel.

3. Thread the 3/4 full syringe into the lever bleed port.

1. Open the valve or clamp on the syringe at the lever.

2. Hold the syringe vertically. Gently push the plunger down, stopping before air enters the hose tube. Oil will fill the syringe at the brake caliper.

3. Hold the syringe at the caliper vertically while slowly pulling the syringe plunger at the lever upward to draw oil from the syringe at the caliper.

Stop before any air enters the hose tube at the caliper.

If needed: repeat steps 2 and 3 until only a small amount of bubbles appear.

4. Close the valve or clamp on the syringe for the brake lever.

Threaded Bleeding Edge:

5. Unthread the syringe from the caliper.

6. Use a T10 TORX to install the bleed screw.

Bleeding Edge:

5. Rotate the Bleeding Edge tool attachment clockwise until it stops to close the system.

6. Remove the syringe with the Bleeding Edge tool attachment from the bleed port by pulling the Bleeding Edge tool straight from the caliper. Do not rotate the Bleeding Edge tool while removing.

7. Use a 5 mm hex wrench to tighten the bleed port to 1.6 N·m (14 in-lb).

8. Install the bleed plug.

Threaded Bleeding Edge / Bleeding Edge:

9. Open the valve or clamp on the syringe at the lever.

10. Squeeze and release the lever blade 3-5 times.

11. Hold the syringe at the lever vertically. Firmly pull on the plunger to create a vacuum, then compress the plunger to pressurize the system. Repeat this process several times or until only a small amount of bubbles exit the system.

12. Lightly compress and release the plunger at the lever to equalize the system.

13. Close the valve or clamp on the syringe at the brake lever.

14. Remove the syringe at the lever from the bleed port.

15. Install the bleed screw and tighten the bleed screw. Clean any mineral brake oil that drips from the bleed port with isopropyl alcohol and a shop towel.

16. Remove the pad retainer bolt.

17. Remove the bleed block.

18. Spray isopropyl alcohol on the brake lever and caliper and clean them with a shop towel.

19. Install the brake pads.

20. Install the pad retainer bolt.

21. Install the e-clip.

1. Insert a brake pad spacer into the caliper, thin side first.

2. Squeeze the brake lever to advance the pads until they contact the pad spacer.

3. Remove the pad spacer.

4. Reinsert the pad spacer using the thick wedge side to push the pads back into the caliper.

5. Remove the the pad spacer. Install the wheel according to the wheel manufacturer's instructions.

6. Squeeze the brake lever to advance the pistons. Spin the wheel and check for brake lever feel and function.

Proceed to the Disc Brake Caliper Installation section to center the rotor between the brake pads if needed.

This completes the bleed procedure for SRAM MTB disc brakes. For new brake pads and rotors, complete the Disc Bed-in Procedure.

All new brake pads and rotors should be put through a wear-in process called 'bed-in'. The bed-in procedure, which should be performed prior to your first ride, ensures the most consistent and powerful braking feel along with the quietest braking in most riding conditions. The bed-in process heats up the brake pads and rotors, which deposits an even layer of brake pad material (transfer layer) to the braking surface of the rotor. This transfer layer optimizes braking performance. To watch a video of the bed-in procedure, visit: SRAM: Disc Brake Bed-In Procedure.

1. Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed, then firmly apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat approximately twenty times.

2. Accelerate the bike to a faster speed, then very firmly apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat approximately ten times.

3. Allow the brakes to cool prior to any additional riding.

4. After the bed-in procedure has been performed, the caliper may need to be re-centered.

SRAM recommends to bleed your mineral oil brakes every other year to remove accumulated air. Bleed your brakes more often if you ride frequently, ride on aggressive terrain that requires heavy braking, and/or in sub-freezing temperatures. SRAM brake bleed videos can be found on www.sram.com/service.

Routinely check the rotor bolts, clamp bolts, and caliper bolts for the correct torque values; never ride with loose bolts.

Inspect disc brake pads for wear every month. When the thickness of the backing plate and pad material is 3 mm or less, they are worn and need to be replaced with new disc brake pads.

Rotor and pad wear will vary by product model. This is normal.

Disc brake pads should be replaced when the brake pad material and backer plate measure less than 3 mm in width. Change the rotor when changing the pad material, or when the thickness is less than the minimum stated on the rotor: 1.55 mm for 1.85 mm rotors and 1.7 mm for 2 mm thick rotors.

Use calipers or the Maven Pad Spacer to measure disc brake pad and rotor wear.

If your brakes exhibit excessive lever throw or spongy feel, perform the following steps before bleeding the system:

1. Clamp the bicycle into a bicycle work stand.

2. Remove the wheel from the affected caliper.

3. Remove the brake pads.

4. Re-install the pad retainer bolt.

5a. For road brakes: Install the thicker side of the appropriate pad spacer through the caliper between all pistons.

5b. For MTB brakes: Install two 1.85 mm rotors through the caliper between all pistons.

6. Squeeze the brake lever several times until the pistons have advanced and contact the pad spacer. One piston may move faster than the other; that is okay, Continue to squeeze the lever until the pistons touch the spacer.

7. Remove the pad spacer.

8. Use a plastic tire lever to push the pistons back into the caliper bores.

9. Repeat steps 4-7 until the pistons move freely.

10. Remove the spacer and pad retainer bolt from the caliper and reinstall the brake pads.

11. Install the thinner side of a pad spacer between the brake pads.

12. Squeeze the brake lever lightly 5 times (approximately 4 lbs.) until the pads contact the spacer. Remove the spacer.

13. Install the wheel.

14. Loosen the caliper mounting bolts.

15. Lightly squeeze (approximately 4 lbs.) the brake lever several times to position the brake pads to the proper distance from the rotor.

16. Center the caliper on the rotor, and tighten the caliper mounting bolts to the torque specified in the appropriate user manual.

17. Spin the wheel and check the brake function. The pistons should move freely and there should not be excessive brake lever throw. If there is no improvement in the brake function, proceed to the service manual for your caliper.

If your levers have excessive brake lever throw, it may be the result of the caliper pistons advancing only minimally as the pads wear, sometimes from light use, such as dragging the brakes frequently or not braking hard enough to advance the pistons.

You can advance the pistons by performing the following steps:

1. Adjust the lever reach all the way out. Count the number of clicks or note the reach measurement beforehand.

2. Pull hard on the lever 5 times. You may use two fingers if needed, but you do not need to pull the lever all the way to the handlebar.

3. Adjust the reach to the starting position measured in step 1.

♻ For recycling and environmental compliance, please visit sram.com/en/company/about/environmental-policy-and-recycling.

Used mineral brake oil must be recycled or disposed of in accordance to local, state, and federal regulations. Never pour used brake oil or fluid down a sewage or drainage system or into the ground or body of water.